Lobster Tacos and Lobster Ceviche

Chef Val Cantu
Californios, San Francisco

Lobster Tacos

Lobster Ceviche

Overview

Gaggenau Appliances: Convection oven or combi-steam oven

Serves 4

For the Chile de árbol salsa:

2 Roma tomatoes

4 garlic cloves

¼ white onion

2 chile Arbol, deseeded

2 chile Puya, deseeded

1 cup (240g) grapeseed oil

To make the Chile de árbol salsa:

Heat the oven in the Convection mode 180° F. Chop the white onion, tomatoes and garlic into small dice and place on the blue oven tray. Add the dried chiles and grapeseed oil and toss to combine. Place the tray in the oven, angled lip facing forward and dehydrate for 1 - 1 ½ hours until the vegetables have softened.

Strain the ingredients to separate the oil and transfer them to a blender. Blend on high until smooth, lower the speed to low and add ¼ cup of the oil to the mixture to emulsify. Pass the salsa through a fine mesh strainer and cool down over an ice bath. Store in an airtight container until ready to use.

For the citrus chile jam:

1 ½ cups (375g) orange juice

½ cup (10g) fermented Aji lemon (found in Latin food stores)

¼ cup (50g) fermented brine

1 cup (200g) sugar

2 tbsp (18g) apple pectin

½ tsp (1g) grated nutmeg

To make the citrus chile jam:

Combine the orange juice, aji peppers, brine, sugar and nutmeg in a small saucepan and bring to a gentle boil. Level 8 induction and level 8 on the small burner of the gas cooktop. Slowly whisk in the apple pectin, reduce the heat to level 4 and simmer for ten minutes.

Cool slightly then blend the mixture for a minute, pass it through a fine mesh strainer and cool over an ice bath. Store in an airtight container until ready to use.

For the recado rojo:

1 tsp (5g) dried oregano

⅓ cup (85g) annatto seeds

¾ tsp (4g) allspice

1 tsp (5g) black peppercorns

½ tsp (2g) cloves

½ tsp (2g) cinnamon stick

1 cup (240g) orange juice

⅓ cup (90g) tamari

1 tbsp (10g) fermented Aji lemon

Scant ¼ tsp xanthan gum

To make the recado rojo:

Heat the oven in the Convection mode to 340° F.

Combine the spices on a small rimmed baking pan and toast for 8 - 10 minutes until fragrant.

Steep the toasted spices in the orange juice, add the tamari and fermented aji and blend on high for two minutes. Slowly add the xanthan gum to thicken, then pass through a fine mesh sieve and cool over an ice bath. Store in an airtight container until needed.

For the Hickory Gold tortillas:

1 cup (200g) Hickory Gold masa or other heirloom masa

2 oz (25g) duck fat

1 tsp (5g) kosher salt

To make the Hickory Gold tortillas:

Combine the masa, duck fat and kosher salt in a stand mixer and mix on low for 2 minutes.

Portion the masa into ⅛ cup measures and roll into balls. Flatten using a tortilla press. Cook the tortillas over medium high heat for approximately 1 minute each side. The tortillas can be heated in a pan on the gas or induction cooktop or directly on the Teppan Yaki or on the Electric Grill.

For the lobster:

4 4 - 6 oz lobster tails

To cook the lobster:

Select the Broil with Circulated Air mode in the convection or combi-steam and set the temperature to 475° F. Line the blue oven tray or solid stainless pan with foil.

To prepare the lobsters, cut a straight line down the top of the shell to the tail with sharp kitchen shears. Turn the lobster over and press firmly with both thumbs in between each vertebrae to release the meat. Turn the tail over, gently lift the lobster tail out of the shell using your fingers to separate the meat from the shell. Remove the mud vein and push the shell together so the meat rests on the shell.

Place the lobster tails on the prepared oven pan, brush or spray the lobster tails with a little oil and brush with the recado rojo sauce. Slide the pan into the upper part of the oven, close to the broil element and cook for 4 - 5 minutes, until slightly charred.

For the oranges:

1 each navel, cara cara and blood oranges, supremed and segments removed

For the garnish:

Wood sorrel and citrus lace or substitute fresh cilantro or watercress

Close-up of lobster tacos.

To serve the Lobster Taco:

Slice the lobster tails and arrange the slices on a cooked tortilla, place a large dot of Chile de árbol salsa and smaller dot of the citrus chili jam in the middle of the arbol salsa, finish with supremes of each orange. Add a squeeze of fresh lemon juice and some finishing salt to the lobster before serving and garnish with wood sorrel and citrus lace.

Overview

Gaggenau Appliances: Combi-steam oven

Serves 4

For the lobster:

4 4-6 oz lobster tails

To cook the lobster:

Heat the combi-steam oven in the Steam Mode, 100% Humidity + 212° F.

To prepare the lobster tails, cut a straight line down the top of the shell to the tail with sharp kitchen shears. Turn the lobster over and press firmly with both thumbs in between each vertebrae to release the meat. Turn the tail over, gently lift the lobster tail out of the shell using your fingers to separate the meat from the shell. Remove the mud vein and push the shell together so the meat rests on the shell.

Place the lobster tails in the perforated pan. When the oven comes to temperature, slide the pan in the oven and set the timer for 4 - 6 minutes depending on size. Remove the tails, place in a bowl and cover with ice to prevent continued cooking.

For the tomato water:

2 lbs ripe tomatoes

To make the tomato water:

Blitz the tomatoes in a food processor until chunky and broken up. Pour the chunks into a cheesecloth lined metal strainer that fits over a bowl. Allow to drain overnight covered in the refrigerator.

For the saffron aguachile:

1 ¼ cups (300g) tomato water

1 tsp (5g) strands saffron

⅛ cup (25g) white soy sauce

¼ cup (50g) orange Juice

¼ cup (50g) lemon Juice

⅓ tsp (1g) Amabito No Moshio

¼ tsp (1g) salt

2 kumquats

1 tbsp (15g) Fresno chiles

To make the saffron aguachile:

Mortar the saffron strands with a small amount of the tomato water to bloom. Combine all the ingredients in a blender and pulse lightly. Set aside to steep for 20 minutes before straining through a Chemex coffee filter, season with salt and reserve in the refrigerator.

For the Fresno chile oil:

1 cup (240g) grapeseed oil

¼ cup (50g) Fresno chiles with seeds

2 each Guajilio chile

1 tsp (4g) salt

To make the Fresno chile oil:

Heat the oven in the Convection mode 340° F. Place the Guajillo chiles on a small baking tray and toast until fragrant. Blend the Fresno and Guajilo chiles with the oil to break the chiles down but take care not to emulsify the mixture. Pour the mixture into a small saucepan and heat at a low temperature until the oil reaches 120° F. When cooled, the chile oil can be stored in the refrigerator for 2 weeks.

For the garnish:

2 kumquats

1 oz (28 g) trout roe

To serve the ceviche:

Slice the lobster tails into 3 sections. Place in a shallow bowl and add a few spoonfuls of the chilled aguachile. Garnish with the sliced kumquat, a little trout roe, thinly sliced Fresno chile and a drizzle of Fresno chile oil.

Dinnerware by Hering Berlin
Photography by Adahlia Cole and Colin Peck