Chef Mansour Memarian, Director of F&B and Culinary, Palazzo Versace Dubai
From the Middle East to Europe and back: How Mansour Memarian defied his naysayers by becoming a chef at the helm of two Michelin starred restaurants.
Chef Mansour Memarian’s life-long passion to bring Persian cuisine to the fore has most certainly come to fruition. Born in Tehran in 1976, he recalls fond memories of his early childhood in Iran, the first city to influence his culinary journey. After being sent to Germany for his higher education and graduating with a degree in Mathematics and Biology, the young chef knew that being a scientist wasn’t on the cards. Determined to pursue his true calling, he recalls, ‘No one believed me when I said I wanted to become a chef, especially as I come from a culture where this profession is not heavily encouraged for a young man. My family was quite surprised and, in all honesty, not very supportive.’
Young men in his society simply did not become chefs.
‘I was often laughed at, especially in high school but I always took my decision seriously. I never abandoned the thought of becoming a chef. I love food, I do not eat because I am hungry, I eat because I love tasting and exploring the flavour in each bite. I enjoy mixing different flavours, the endless varieties of ingredients and the way the world is brought closer through its diverse cuisines. I simply love food’ he says.
“No one believed me when I said I wanted to become a chef, especially as I come from a culture where this profession is not heavily encouraged for a young man.”
It was during an apprenticeship at the boutique villa hotel The Villa Medici in Krefeld, Germany that the young chef’s culinary talents began to take centre stage. Mentored by French chefs, Mansour recalls developing a love for the kitchen, food and the ingredients themselves, all players in the art of cooking.
During Mansour’s time as a young chef, the restaurant industry differed from that of todays. He recalls years of unpaid apprenticeships working in the world’s most exigent kitchens – claiming that under those military-like conditions he experienced the best training of his career, one that surpassed any monetary value: ‘I do not regret one second of that time and would love one day to write a book about the life behind the scenes in Michelin-starred kitchens. All the movies you see about Michelin starred kitchens being hubs of extreme high pressure - I relate to them all and have gone through those experiences. They made me the chef I am today.’
At just 26 years old, Mansour was working as head chef at the Ars Vivendi Restaurant in the Jagdhof Glashütte Hotel, Germany when the restaurant earned its Michelin star. He reflects: ‘To reach there, I was trained by some of the biggest legends in the culinary world like Peter Nothel, Jean-Claude Bourgueil and Joe Gasser. Once you enter this world of Michelin stars, the pressure is immense. I was tested five to six times a year by anonymous inspectors. You never knew when they would come to dine. I had to be prepared at every second.’ The second star came two years later in 2008 when he was working at the Pavillon Restaurant Innsbruck in Austria, and he recalls ‘somehow I didn’t feel so much pressure as before.’
“Once you enter this world of Michelin stars, the pressure is immense. I was tested five to six times a year by anonymous inspectors. You never knew when they would come to dine. I had to be prepared at every second.”
Working in Austria bought him much success and joy, with Mansour being named the “Best International Chef.” He also created and published “Gourmet Raffinessen” that was later voted as “Best Cookbook.”
Mansour finds himself inspired by the human connections he made – with his mentors, living culinary legends, team members and fellow chefs. With each new relationship came a new palate of flavours and tastes. Being based in an international hub such as the UAE has also served as inspiration – the melting pot of nationalities, languages, cultures and food are a constant source of stimulation.
As for the UAE, more notably Dubai’s evolving culinary scene, Mansour expresses his excitement for what the future holds, ‘Dining concepts are now akin to fashion, with new trends emerging every year or season. As a chef, you must always keep yourself up to date, with your finger on the culinary pulse of the city. You have to live it, otherwise you cannot deliver. The most important thing is that you must have confidence in your own style and expertise, in order to reign supreme in the ocean of outlets. Only the fittest and most original can survive.’
Mansour believes that: ‘Design, beauty and vanity of a restaurant will fade over time, while a restaurant’s personality and talent will ensure longevity. The industry will have to re-focus its efforts to ensure new concepts are backed with a true vision, authentic cuisine and strongly planted roots.’
Mansour shows no signs of slowing down. In fact, he is pushing himself to new limits as the visionary leader of the F&B team of one of the city’s most emblematic hotels, Palazzo Versace Dubai. Through facing the challenge of managing different departments and fine dining establishments, he has realized his ultimate dream of subliming Persian cuisine at the property’s signature restaurant-Enigma.
‘The dynamics of my job have now changed drastically and that is exactly the reason why I love hospitality and being in a kitchen. No two days are ever the same. You need to be able to constantly adjust and see every challenge as an opportunity to improve and evolve. The best thing about my profession is that I am privileged to have an input in making people happy by providing them with good food to eat and enjoy with their loved ones.’
Chef Mansour Memarian has collaborated with Gaggenau on several occasions by creating delectable, innovative feasts of the Persian kind at the Gaggenau Galleria. We look forward to welcoming him again very soon.
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