Discover Chef Howard’s recipes

For Howard Ko, becoming a chef was a vocation. It wasn’t a career that he chanced upon or fell into, on the contrary, it was quite the opposite. As a young boy in 6th grade, Chef Ko knew that his future lay in the kitchen and even in his youth he was prepared to start at the bottom and climb the culinary ladder. Little did he know as an eager, aspiring young chef how arduous the journey would be. Here Gaggenau delves into those early days and explores what shaped Chef Ko into the world-renowned chef he is today- taking the gastronomic reins at one of Dubai’s leading restaurants, CÉ LA VI.

Hailing from Los Angeles, California; Chef Ko knew from the age of ten that he wanted to be a chef. He grew up in a tough, single-parent household, yet his mum was his ultimate supporter and remains his biggest fan to date. She encouraged him to do something he loved, assuring him that his chosen career would never feel like work.

Knowing was the simple part, making it happen would require a lot more action. At 15 he started where most great chefs start, washing dishes and making sandwiches in a small restaurant. Luckily there he worked with chef Sal Marino who is still his mentor today. This is where his love affair with the kitchen began, with the comradery instantly making him feel like part of the team that would shape and nurture him.

Chef training was tough, really tough, recalling how it was a different time for chefs back then, he reflects “At 20 years old I worked at Restaurant Daniel (2 Michelin stars). I kept knocking on the back door and they kept telling me they weren’t hiring. I kept coming back and worked for free for two weeks before I finally got a prep job. The cooks and chefs pushed me very hard, they wanted me to quit. I remember I dropped something in the middle of service in front of everyone and the chef told me I was a disappointment, I should go back to school and become a cab driver.”

“My persistence and dedication to succeed eventually gained their respect.”

“Years later when I tried to get into the French Laundry in Yountville California (3 Michelin Stars). I sent over 30 different cover letters and resumes and got no call back. Finally I got a call to come in for a two day trial. There was a rumor that every candidate needs to cook three courses for the chef.”

“It was 7pm middle of a busy service on the first day. John Granada the meat cook who is now my best friend (head chef of Otium, in Los Angeles) came in laughing and gave me 2 eggs, 2 hamachi, and 2 quails and told me to make 3 courses in 2 ½ hours and not to mess it up.”

“My heart was pounding but I got it done and the cooks looked at the dishes, gave me a nod and smirk which in hindsight was a good thing. I got the job and it was one of the hardest kitchens I have ever worked in with the intensity, the pursuit of perfection, the pressure and the menu changing everyday. A lot of great names came out of that kitchen and it’s an honor to be a part of it.”

Perhaps Chef Ko had the love of all things culinary in his blood from the beginning, the nephew of a famous Japanese chef, she instilled in him that if he wanted to be a big fish, he’d have to learn how to play with the other big fish, with failure simply being part of the job. The ability to learn and evolve is what would separate the good chefs from the great chefs.

Chef Ko is now at the helm of Dubai’s iconic restaurant CÉ LA VI where he has curated a stellar New Asian menu that is both innovative and daring in its approach to dining. Being the chef here goes well beyond the food he creates.

“I love that I am in the position to impact the lives of the people who work for me. I hope that I have made an imprint in their lives by what they have learnt from me, in order to better themselves and further their careers. I also love to make people happy. Food is the link that connects all walks of life. I feel as chefs we are not only here to feed people but also to create memories for our guests. I can still remember the best meal of my life and look back and smile on it.”

Praising on the UAE being a multicultural melting pot, Chef Ko feels that the boundaries of creativity and flavors are being pushed to the limits. Whilst ingenuity and innovation reign supreme in this region, truly listening to the customer and understanding what lies at the heart of their dining experience is what’s really important.

“When we are aligned with what our customers want, we can serve them a menu that meets their expectations. Under promise but over deliver. This strikes the perfect experience balance.”

Reflecting on the importance of industry integrity, Ko says “From what I have seen here, chefs are not taught an ethos about the culture of what it takes to be a great chef; the philosophy that no matter how entry level you are, if you are in the right kitchen culture it will nurture you as a chef. The sky is the limit and you deserve your spot to be the best you can be. First and foremost the mindset needs to be there. Here at CÉ LA VI this is very important.”

Chef Ko and Gaggenau recently collaborated to curate an online masterclass whereby Ko showcased the preparation of the restaurants signature dishes in the Gaggenau Galleria.

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